Freak Scene
Scott Hallsworth’s Freak Scene is a winning new eatery in SW6
Scott Hallsworth has just opened Freak Scene in Fulham. The clever Australian chef has a cult following: when he first opened Kurobuta ten years ago, everyone loved it immediately for its unusual approach, fusing Japanese cuisine with European flavours and a strong visual style. Hallsworth’s personal style carried through into the interior, with its ripped band posters on the walls and rock soundtrack defining his unique vibe. A series of pop-ups and sister restaurants followed, along with a residency at Harvey Nichols – but Hallworth is a better chef than a businessman and things went a bit quiet for a while. Now, though, he’s back, in a slightly unlikely location in Parson’s Green (don’t worry, it’s very near the tube) and it’s just as good as you’d hope.
Hallsworth is behind the bar when we arrive – it’s a small site, stylishly laid out with large rattan lanterns and neon signs creating a bit of a Blade Runner vibe. On the small menu is a mix of familiar favourites from the Kurobuta era alongside new ideas along the same theme: everything has an element of surprise to it.
Dishes are small, for sharing, and come in a random order – we start with Thai cookies coated in fish sauce caramel, which is a sweet, salty, crunchy treat – and then there’s an amazing black cod in ribbons of intriguingly textured crispy filo pastry, with hot and sour coconut sauce. Salmon sashimi pizza is a throwback to Kurobuta days and clearly back by popular demand as a Hallsworth signature – this is salmon with truffle ponzu and wasabi tobiko arranged as a pizza and cut into quarters – and the memorable miso grilled aubergine doesn’t disappoint either with its soft, caramelised moreishness. Beef fillet tataki with onion ponzu and garlic crisps is delicate and packed with umami, while grilled pork belly comes with pickled mussels as a deconstructed lettuce wrap. Puddings are insane. Purple passionfruit pavlova was beautiful and unusual, flavoured with yuzu and big on texture. Book now.
28 Parsons Green Lane, SW6
